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Part II TOKYO Konnichiwa. Ogenki desu ka? April 5, 2006

Japan Air - 3-hour flight - and then I was there. Tokyo. "City of Idiosyncrasy incarnate" From hip hop to haute couture - a mix of sashimi with tahini or turntable with kotomusic. Tokyo is the blending of the wonderful, and the weird. It is a kaleidoscope of elegance from kaiseki ryori (traditional meals) to cherry blossom in bloom to the clean fragrance of the tatami floors in our Ryokan Kangetsu. From cell phones glued to ears of every boy walking, immaculately clad citizens to 'suits' running with briefcases for the morning exchange of subway lines from Ginza, Marunouchi, Hibiya, Tozai, Chiyoda, Yurakucho, Hanzomun, Namboki, Yujakucho, Asakusa to the MTA or Shinjuku or Odeo; students in uniform; mothers with babies both in and out of prams; large and small advertisements both stationary and movable all feasts for the eyes and mind; the aroma of foods and the sounds of haulkers in the subway corridors where one had simply to stand with a questioning look and a horde of helpful offers materialized from seemingly nowhere.  Large boards displayed the subway/train lines by colour and stops by name and number (120 - 164 meaning the price one was one hundred twenty yen) or if preferred one went to the machine and punched in ENGLISH and a nicely moderate voice spoke instructions while a visual came on the screen.  Tokyo - the land of the rising sun.   Approximately 12M people reside within Tokyo's 1,288sq km/800sq. miles, almost one fourth of Japan's total population lives within commuting distance. And yet despite the numbers of people on the streets throughout the day and night there is a harmony, and little to no crime.  I was expecting to be among a sea of bodies crunching along the pavement in a city where space is high commodity and cigar box sleeping space complete with toothbrush and face cloth is offered the weary commuter who fails to catch his or her last train but instead I saw parks, green lawns, trees, flowers, wide boulevards reminiscent of Paris' Champs Elise, cars giving way to one another though in constant dance to the changing lights, bicycles peddled on sidewalks and side curbs; flat barge boats hauling timber and land fill; the sports fisherman and large river boats "yakata-bune" filled with inquisitive travellers with peering eyes and hungry mouths - the restaurant cruises similar to those in Paris along the Seine but this was the Sumida-gawa; passing under bridges painted different colours, as hanging laundry and apartment blocks of regular people dotted the river side, past the 'entertainment island' Odaiba. The sights of Tokyo are endlessly exciting.  The sheer size of the city as seen from atop any high rise sets one's perspective of the landscape below in a state of wonderment; several humongous  'central parks' dot the grid below that is intersected by long boulevards and highway systems.   It is truly a remarkable sight from any of the vantage points throughout the city from south to west - north to east the city simply keeps stretching as though it was an elastic band.   Alicia and James joined me at the airport - they on Korean Air - I on Japan Air.  We took the JR line directly into Tokyo Station (bullet train of one hour from airport Narita to the city's centre.) There we transferred to the regular line to Kamata then transferred to an independent line to Chidori cho - Ryokan Kangetsu.  This town had the feel of a small beach town - nice houses - I heard myself saying over and over again - just like Redondo Beach or Venice - a beach town.  It was pouring rain.   Our flight actually came in by noon but by the time we had gathered luggage, quick customs, trains and transfers it was around 3:30pm.  We were all exhausted from the Korean trip; James and I were both ill with bronchial and runny noses. We actually got off at the second stop instead of the third so after instructions from a handy police box we grabbed a cab and headed to the ryokan. Had we followed the instructions correctly we would have found them to be exact.  The lodging was but a minute away from the train line. This was a small independent line that actually went three stops beyond ours and then returned.  In short, a small beach town shuttle - haha.   Our ryokan was Japanese style housing - It was built on a small hill sandwiched in between regular houses.  One walked up a winding stone stair flanked by all manner of large green leafed plant, hiding tiny sculptures of all size and shape, only discernable from the upturned leaf.  At the top of the stairway were several buildings on either side of the continuing walkway that stopped at a registration desk. Bamboo chairs and a bell announced our arrival. The 'staff' only spoke Japanese but it was not difficult to express ourselves and they themselves. Large keys were handed out. Alicia and James headed back to the 'landing' and went right to their quarters; I took the left.  My 'house unit' was interesting - a small entrance with sets of shoes (one for inside and one for outside and a slot for my own), two doors painted with red doors and then a very steep staircase going down to the First floor. I stood just where I had entered and gazed up at a very steep set of stairs that led to the Third floor. I stared at my very large and extremely heavy duffle bag - I had 'earned' the bag while training for the New Orleans marathon 2004 for having brought in over $4,000 in contributions for APLA (AIDS Project Los Angeles) - and then pondered just how I was to carry this up to my room.  When I say steep one could easily compare these to the stairs of Uxmal in Mexico where after I had gotten to the top and enjoyed myself with scouting the pyramid I found I physically could not get down as I physically could not see my first step, the pitch was such that one simply stood on the 'brink'. In that case I simply waited over an hour or so for some one to actually come up and then I simply followed them down - they being my vantage point.  These stairs had that look. Barely enough room for a foot to actually land and the height of each step rather 'stretching'.  One of the staff came by to make sure I had found my way and then proceeded to step in front of me onto the second stair then took hold of the front of the bag.  I protested as she was a good 15 years my senior and I thought I certainly didn't want to be the cause of a death from over exertion.  She shook her head and began to haul it up; I took hold of my end and together we managed to get it to the top.  She then quickly retreated.  There was a bathroom just outside my door and along the narrow hall to my right were two more doors painted red. Each housing unit must have been fashioned in a similar manner; hence the number of 'tenants' was reasonably small - maybe 40 or so.  There were 4 units and then a connective building that clearly wasn't Japanese style hence Western.  Off the main pathway were two large rooms, rock stones lead into the rooms, then along narrow floor of individually laid stone with a small table and chairs for mini dining, an internet set up; then with a step up into a larger room housing internet connections and DVD availability, two reclining massage chairs and a foot massage machine, small library and DVD selection - the other room had a larger table and more regular chairs. Both of these rooms had a sign stating that the electricity was manufactured from both sun and wind. I was to soon learn that there was always a 'raging' wind and as my daughter might say crazy ass loud crows circling, swooping and nesting; not that the crows contributed to the electrical bill.      I opened my red door to find a most charming room - a space about 7x7 or so. very cozy and utilitarian yet aesthetically pleasing to the eye; a long low table built to the wall with a tall hanging cabinet to the right. A small tea pot and cup, one large thermos bottle with hot water daily delivered, and a television with remote. Tatami floor mat with a bed mat and comforter. One pillow.  There was a sink to the right of the open door and a chest high counter over the ventilation/heating system. Paper slide door/blinds for the window.  It was compact, neat, refreshing and utterly delightful. And to my surprise every morning there was a freshly washed/folded kimono with toothbrush and paste neatly lay on the comforter. I pulled my long duffle alongside the bed placing it open in front of the closet where I hung my 'fish' coat from the Korean art camp adventure.   This segment housing is like a hive of layers - as I said, there are several segment housings throughout the small `grounds` which sit perched atop an incline - steep incline that somehow seems to keep going. Incredibly laid out - very clever in utilization of space.   I joined Alicia and James at the walkway and decided to make this a short evening.  The beach town had much to offer; all manner of foods, shops, bakeries, book stores, convenience stores butchers.. We opted to go directly across the street to a small little mom and pop (everything there was that) café decorated in 1950's Americana posters complete with jukebox music of the time.  The food was simple but good and the owners most pleasant. James and Alicia apparently were 'in need' of their kimchi and spice, and James his soju - the café offered beer - but it appeared that James was not "in Japan" yet so he went down to the local convenience and brought back a bottle in a paper bag. I expressed my dismay at their 'not going with the flow' as after all I had had 9 days of three meals a day that were foreign to my stomach for which I was paying dearly.   I retired to my room satiated with nice flavours lingering in my mouth, undressed and sprawled out on the floor bed, switched on the television and watched one detective series after another, in Japanese of course. I was soon to realize that most of the series were a mixture of high soap opera, mystery, and lusty or suggestive scenes, where adultery and passion murders seemed to be 'the' thing. I had had a great entry into Japan.  A land of extremely friendly, helpful people. I slept very well.     April 6 - Thursday Ueno - Alicia meets me at the 'landing' at 8am - James is staying behind. Off on the 'beach connection at Chidori cho (110yen) to Kamata where we will transfer to JR line to Ueno (160y) after we have had some breakfast.  Being so early many of the food shops aren't open yet but we find a Vie de France (this is to become our breakfast spot) - a pseudo mini burrito and a caramel swirl roll, some hot tea and I am set - in heaven actually. Then off to the National Museum at Ueno Park, the northeast edge of the Yamanote Line and one of the largest parks in Tokyo and one of the most popular spots for a family outing. The park's official name is Ueno Onshi Koen, better known to its local as Ueno no Oyama and Ueno Park to Westerners.  It is a cultural mecca of attractions ranging from top museums, temples, cherry blossomed lanes that spill over onto crowded walkways filled with entrepreneurial handcrafts, free wheeling musicians, small food vendors selling sweet potato wrapped up in paper. It is the place to "unwind, date, have illicit encounters, spruce up shamisen techniques and practice hip-hop".   The National Museum and the Natural History share an avenue together, along with the Museum of Western Art and the delightful Shitamachi Museum displaying old Tokyo, Ueno Zoo and Shinobazu Pond (a bird sanctuary). The famed Toshogu Shrine was built in 1651 and dedicated to the founder of Tokugawa shogunate. Ueno Hill was the site of the last ditch defense by Tokugawa Shogunate by about 2000 Tokugawa loyalist in 1868.    It was a fabulous day, clear, blue sky, radiant against the white and pink cherry blossoms cascading over the walkways. The National Museum was truly a magnificent collection of Japanese artefacts, from old kimonos, samurai armor, priceless swords, lacquer ware, ceramics, pottery, scrolls, ukiyo-e (wood prints) archeological finds. It was a magnificent building - actually a museum composed of five separate buildings. It is the oldest and largest museum in all of Japan and also has the largest collection of Japanese art in the world. Alicia and I wandered for hours then took in the museum gift shop for a few treasures.  We exited to find the throngs now seeking admission.  We had been early and had had the place to ourselves.  But on such a day as this, everyone was coming to take in the cherry blossoms in full bloom. This WAS the time. April at cherry blossom time.   We meandered over to a sweet potato stall and each took a half potato neatly wrapped up in paper then headed towards the music, down the main walkway past the huge fountain. A young Brit was himself a one-man band playing John Lennon songs while accompanying himself with guitar, a large bass drum hanging on his back which he beat via a cord tied to his foot so that when he tapped out a rhythm the cord pulled taught and the drum beat.  He was great fun to watch and clearly thoroughly enjoying himself.  We deposited an 'offering' and then continued down cherry blossom lane to take in the sights and sounds of the day.  As we were leaving another musician, having seen our man's 'gathering' began to set up shop with his gongs and Korean instruments   Asakusa was a two stop along the Ginza line.  Once out of the station we found ourselves totally immersed in a maze of little shops and vendor stalls that was as thick and densely populated as a beehive in full season.  It was a cacophony of colour and sounds, sights and smells - a buyers paradise. I found two wonderfully unique purses for my daughter and two really interesting T-shirts as well. Alicia also purchased a child's purse. We continued winding out way in and out along the narrow alley ways onto a main stretch that seem to head for the acclaimed Sensoji Temple, Tokyo's oldest and founded in the 7th Century hence long established prior to Tokugawa has settled at Edo.  Dedicated to the Buddhist goddess of mercy the temple is popularly called Kannon Temple.  A golden statue found by two fishermen is still housed in three boxes and even though it's never on display throngs still come to pay respects. Nitemmon Gate built in 16128 is the only structure remaining from the Edo Period; the Senjoi Temple included and the pagoda were destroyed in an air raid in 1945. There is a shrine built back in 1649 commemorating the two fisherman who found the statue of Kannon.   We wandered about 'taking in the day' then decided to head out for a lunch and a look see at the Sky Room - The Asahi Beer Tower which sits next to the huge golden hop balancing precariously atop the glass building. This belongs to the Asahi Beer Company and is supposed to represent a mug of foaming beer.  One would be hard pressed to actually 'envision' this but I suppose after several beers anything is possible. As we exited the park I found a vendor selling cell phone 'jewelry' so I was once again compelled to buy something 'very very' for my daughter - a series of characters that all Tokyoans would certainly know ala cartoon/film characters ala Tim Burtonesque.   An aside - the people of Japan are most receptive to foreigners - everyone attempts to speak English and even the street vendor is capable of communication on some level. And the delight in their eyes when I 'handed back' my Japanese phrases.  A welcoming people to be sure or simply more cosmopolitan than Korea where English and dealing with 'outsiders' is not as readily welcomed.  This contrast might be a culture difference in response only, but the enthusiasm was refreshing.  The toilet system was the same - the trough vs. the heated super structure.   After asking a few people just where 1-23-1 Azumsbashi was we made haste down the city streets, across the river to the Golden Hop - visibly a gold jam to me or. SKY ROOM is wonderful - high atop the building 21st floor - looking out onto the cityscape - only beer is served, no food. Lunch would have to wait. The view was break taking - the scope of the city  - just this part alone  - was mind boggling in size. Giant 'central parks' could be seen, temple tops, long lanes of cherry blossoms in bloom, no housing taller than a 3 story building hence a nice sense of community; many small plots or 'community' graves nestled in between the houses, a maze of criss cross massive highways that cut the grid.  The river below with the boats, barges and floating restaurants.  And the cherry blossoms - everywhere in bloom. Temples, blooms, water, roads, communities.  It was fascinating - It was Paris.  It was Tokyo. It was the Sumida River not to be confused with the Kamejima River that runs through the heart of Tokyo past the Imperial Palace. Alicia and I enjoyed our beers and clicked away to our heart's content at the city below.   The Ginza area was the next stop - the Fifth Avenue of Tokyo - glitzy with some of the most expensive real estate on the planet. Hermes, Chanel, Prada, Louis Vitton, up market department stores, top-notch restaurants and izakaya or traditional pubs.  Alicia and I dined at Shimba a very nice meal. It was very tasty and I welcomed the 'sit down'. My terrible bronchial and runny nose had followed me throughout the day not to mention the constant upset stomach - tricky over a trough. But when one is trekking one simply doesn't have time to 'acquiesce' hence a mound of Kleenex was habitually stuffed into every pocket and as for anything else, well you just make it work. Keeping interested and on the go doesn't allow for setbacks. Time enough when I got back to the ryokan.  We had had a wonderful day of sights and sounds, purchases, and picture taking. As the sun began to slip down over Fuji san it was time to return to our home so we headed out to the nearest subway wending our way back to Kamata and then to our beach shuttle. James had gone to see a doctor and was looking quite well. He was hungry so he and Alicia went out to get some dinner. I had had mine so I retired to my room, put on my kimono, headed for a hot shower and then retired to watch Japanese television and catch up on some needed sleep and relaxation.  It had been an exhausting but thrilling day.   An aside: today we met a mother/daughter team from Australia - mother had pink rainbow hair and daughter was the image of a starlet top model at the ripe old age of 11. She had opted to change her name and mother was fine with the change. They had been to Japan several times so were old travellers by now, hopping the metro and trains.  I greeted them with a cherry good morning and they responded in kind, joined us where we sat waiting for 'our assigned' car - they were at a different but it was cold at the end and there were no seats so I have invited them to join us. I snapped a photo of the team and then one of the 'would be' fashion design statement and we chatted and to our surprises Jenny Jump, mother, was an artist in Australia.  We chatted about art and artistic issues, exchanged cards to which I followed up when I got back - taking a look at her web site etc. They were a delightful 'team'.   April 7 - Friday Imperial Palace (Kyokyo) and Ropongo Hills and galleries.   Up early, showered and ready to go.  Alicia met me on the landing and together we headed out.  James opted to hang out another day by himself.  Alicia and I retraced out morning steps from the day before and once again Vie de France won my heart. Alicia was desperately searching for kimchi, vegetables or noodles. None to be found.   We headed out to Tokyo Station where we would find the Imperial Palace. The day was very grey and very cold. There was real winter in the air. Quite a contrast from yesterday. The train station was marvellous - humongous. Colonial almost. We walked up the street  - new buildings being built to the nicely carved gates that opened out onto a moat - beautiful giant white swans with black masks and orange circled eyes and beaks - The Imperial Palace, home of the imperial family, was built on the very spot where Edo Castle used to stand in the days of the Tokugawa shogunate - its completion in 1888 and is now residence of Emperor Akihito, 125th emperor of Japan. The palace ground, some 114 hectares (284 acres) are off-limits to the public with the exception of two when the royal family makes an appearance. Tours are by appointment only and are conducted in Japanese, offered Monday through Friday.  The surrounding grounds on the outskirts of the walled palace are extensive and beautifully laid out with trees, bushes and cherry blossoms now in bloom stretching over the moat waters all leading to the Nijubashi Bridge where the moat and the palace turrets show above the tree line. One can stroll the perimeter of the palaces and moat - a 3-mile region.  We then headed up to the expansive boulevard towards the Tokyo Tower (mini Tour Eiffel) to the first German planted park, or so the sign read.   It was nice to walk through the flowered beds and open landscaped area.  I never expected to see open horticultural space being used in a city when land is at such a premium - the yin and yang of nature and business, serenity and stress are paramount. We scampered down the metro steps to catch the next train on the Hibya Line for Roppongi Hills - to "meet at the Spider".   Roppongi Hills is a high en shopping, entertainment complex, food, housing concern conceived by Mori Minoru.  The Japanese gardens and the city dwelling etc actually is so big as to warrant guided tours. The Mori Art Museum is absolutely mind boggling - Housed on the 52nd floor it is the highest museum in the world. The show currently on was a 'sister showing' with Berlin covering the period of WWII - war years politically and social reference. It was how both cities viewed the war then and now. The art was dynamic and innovative. The artists represented were -   The 52nd floor offers a view unparalleled of the city - a 360 degrees with floor to ceiling windows.  I clicked and clicked away at glass reflected through glass, of a landscape that stretched in every possible direction for as far as the eye could see - This was Tokyo - different from the scape viewed from The Sky Room - no temples at least major temples just high rises, many harnessing solar power through large sloping panels, helicopter ports, cherry blossom boulevards, twisting highways criss crossing, strange and exciting architectural buildings, community housing, wide boulevards stretching well off into the distance, expansive green park areas splitting up the congested yet orderly layout of the forest of building, coexisting along side and integrated fully with nature.  One could only applaud the city planers at having done such a magnificent job.  It was such an expansive area that combined with the 'other end' as viewed from Asakusa one really had a hard time' taking in' the entire size of the city. It was without a doubt the largest urban area I have ever experienced.   Then off to food and The Beer Museum Yebisu at the Garden Place to take a thirty-minute spin through the Sapporo brewery showcase via the Hibiya Line once again to Ebisu Station. . Named after Yebisu Beer, which made its debut in 1890 to which the Ebisu station and the surrounding neighbourhood owes their names, it present a high tech explanation of the age old process - no free samples but a handsome portion of six 'tasters' made a great stop off- at any time of the day.  We delighted in having a moment's rest - talked over the day's events, the museum show itself, the sights and sounds, the Palace, life and men and sex and and and. We enjoyed this  'dessert', one might say, as we had taken our lunch at a hamburger joint in the metro station where we had asked several people of its whereabouts thinking to ask a young gal about the shopping centre itself where the museum was located but to no avail; it was the old fellow who alighted to the words "beer museum" who ended up directing us and then a good looking businessman took the time out to actually accompany us to the building itself - he insisted.  The Japanese are always willing to go that extra step to assist, or to try out their English. So refreshing.  The shopping area at Ebisu Garden Place was spectacular with high vaulted glass arch doom to an open air space populated with stores lining both side, garden and potted plants both floating and not.  The whole effect was splendid. It is a relatively rich area, with interesting looking artistic people. With more time, an area to actually explore - another time - another visit.   As we had been 'on the go' we decided to pick up a dinner and dine 'in' at the ryokan.  We took the JR line to Shinagawa then transferred to Kamata for the final leg via the beach shuttle to Chidori cho. I had sat next to a young gal on the train and had spotted her reading a 'comic' graphic book.  A small pocket book.  I nudged her and asked to see the front and back cover. She seemed somewhat amused. I watched her read - from back to front. I made mental note. At Chidori cho there was a small convenience/book store.  I spotted a whole mess of pocket books and started to peruse. I said "Oger" but the store keep didn't know what I was talking about so I continued to rummage until I spotted one. I pulled it out, held up Book 2 and he in turn called out the name and held up Book 1.  It was a sale. He took an interesting paper sheet and proceeded to wrap the book cover.  I was delighted and he was enthralled as to my having bought the comic. I collect books when I travel - when in France I usually buy at least 5-6 Bands Design graphic books - usually with political content, social statements - great art work, interesting story series ranging from mystery to sci-fi, so it was fun to have something in Japanese.  Needless to say, I cannot read the words but the pictures will get the story across fine enough.   We joined James and together we all sought out foods pleasing to our palates - some beef and vegetables, rice, Asahi beer, a sweet pastry for dessert hit the spot for me. Several sushi dishes and a kind of kimchi, hot sauce etc. did it for James and Alicia. As it had been a cool brisk day I welcomed a hot shower, an evening of emails, reading through the Mori Museum book which I had purchased (one heavy heavy catalogue but well worth it as I had wanted to share the exhibition with my daughter) and more Japanese television.  I had a long chat with Robert from San Francisco about the Great Golden Buddha at Kamakura which would be our destination for tomorrow.       April 8 - Saturday Kamutara - Day at a seaside village.   Minamoto no Yoritomo self proclaimed first shogun military leader set the foundation for rule by successive military victors straight down to the mid 19th century. Kamakura became the new capital of Japan in the late 12th century following the defeat of the Taira clan by Minamoto no Yoritomo. By the mid 13th century shogun rule was at its height and the city became the political, military, diplomatic and cultural centre of the nation. Through its port of Wakaejima the shogunate took in Chinese culture with eager enthusiasm - ranging from Zen religion and architecture to Buddhist sculpture and carved lacquer ware. A delightful hamlet with no fewer than 65 Buddhist temples and 19 Shinto shrines spread throughout the village and surrounding woodland hills. The village is dramatically surrounded by heavily wooded hillside on three sides, the fourth by a thriving seaport.   We took the JR Yokosuka train line out of the city, past Kurinagawa and Yokohama.The trip is about one hour from Tokyo Station, the connective from Kamata, then it's a another short trek ala another 'beach shuttle' to the town itself. Skies are clear and we three (James is joining us for the first time in Japan) are looking forward to seeing the countryside.     Characteristic of the Kamakura's quintet of temples, home of five historic Zen temples of the highest rank known as Kamakura-Gozan, is the linear arrangement of their various buildings within their respective precincts - a trait peculiar to Zen religious complexes. Joined by stone stairways and paths that blend harmoniously with their natural surrounding.  The Buddha statues, ubiquitous throughout the grounds, were decorated with red scarves, hats and robes.  One had to be bathed continuously so one would take the ladle and ceremoniously dip and pour from head to feet making sure that all parts of the body were washed clean.  One washing the day's or year's troubles away from both the Buddha and self.  It was a cleansing a paper that then told you what was to be, had been or could never be. Very apropos for me, mine was - food for thought; I then tied it to a wire rack for it to blow in the wind and remain part of the thought and wishes for Buddha to watch over.   The overall area was magnificent - multi levelled, planted with ferns, flowers, stone beds, statues here and there, cherry blossoms spreading out, forming a canopy of colour and sweet scent, sea stretching outward, forested hillside inward, golden temple tiled roofs curing up through the freshly blooming blossoms. It was magic.  Just to stand and breathe in solitude resonated to one's core.  There were coy ponds with small waterfalls and a cave that was nestled into the heavily scrub hillside which one could easily have missed.  I entered into the dark to find candles lighting the carved walls - rather like the Stations of the Cross but fewer, of course.  I followed the earthen floor into a lower roofed room that housed many little Buddhas and candles.  I took one small statue, placed my offering and then inscribed the names of my daughter, Alyson and her boy friend, Bill, Lionel, my late husband, my late spaniel Daniel, and myself and then searched for just the right place in the rock wall to place the Buddha so that our names, our presence, our being would forever be part of the experience. Part of Japan.   From the temple we then walked up the main street - a narrow winding road flanked by small craft shops on both sides - looking for the pastel purple ice cream stand (yam ice cream) that would lead us to the Giant Golden Buddha at the end of the thorough fare.  I saw a fellow sweeping some ground and asked where The Buddha was.  He pointed with a smile towards a gate further up. Robert from the ryokan had described his experience, as "when you come round the bend you will see it - giant." So we proceeded to the gates and just as anticipated The Golden Buddha rose high and formidable.  The gold had been washed away by time and erosion over the many hundreds of years; but a trace of gilt clung to the folds of his clothing here and there - otherwise he was a big giant bronze now green tinted sculpture. Daibutsu. Greta Buddha. 11.4m-tall, 850-tonne. Its home was washed away by a tsunami in 1495; it now sits in silence, outdoor meditation.   Two very tall locus sculpture stand at either side on the lower steps as one advances. Daibutsu is a splendor to see - with or without the gold and one need only close one's eyes for a second to see the shine of the gold that once washed his.  In response to nature's harmony and discord one feels a tremendous energy coming from the silence and serenity in the deep-set eyes. It is quite an experience truly; one walks around and soaks up the Zen. The sky was clear and the blue in contrast to the white puffy clouds. Once again there is much commercialism everywhere but one simply moves past it all and steeps oneself into the 'purpose'.  And again the large trough invites one to wash away the day's turmoil - a quick dip of the ladle, water poured over the hands and then ladle put back serves to cleanse. Always the thought of being pure when entering a hallowed area. An area of peace and meditation.   The remainder of the day was one of walking into the shops along the roadside for treasures of sake cups, silks, pottery, yam ice cream, beans etc. and then we wended our way down to the beach, crossing over the small train tracks. A huge truck suddenly appeared coming up behind a tiny; almost toy car - one seater. The juxtaposition was hysterical. It was symbolic of the day for sure - everything in perspective. We walked along the seaboard front as the skies suddenly turned gray and then dark and then rain followed.  It suddenly came down in sheets of water and yet toward Tokyo station is was clear and blue. Our train came and we boarded for the transfer at Hase then on through Yokohama to Tokyo; transfer to JR to Kamata and once again the beach shuttle to Chidori cho and ryokan Kangetsu. This had been a perfect finale to a most interesting trip - a quick taste of Japan. The rain had stopped and we headed to our abodes to drop off our treasures before resurfacing for dinner supplies.     We had an early morning Narita airport in the morning so we opted to pack and relax. We al split to other ends of town to gather dinner supplies as each was in need of something different - I went to the local butcher and got some nice chicken livers, marinated - got rice and vegetables at my 'local' store and then headed off to the pasty shop for a dessert.  A beer from the vending machine and the only appropriate DVD film LOST IN TRANSLATION. As I watched and appreciated the humour of being without a language or custom I vow to return another time and to definitely 'take in' the Park Hyatt - to swim in that enclosed roof top with the full glass floor to ceiling walled window looking out onto the city lights. Absolutely the height of luxury and I fear with price tag to go but heah - one only lives once. Next time.   An aside: while we were travelling the train to our destination I overheard a conversation by two Aussie heavy accented people. I turned to see their faces and discovered that one was a young Japanese man and the other a blonde Aussie student.  The young Japanese man had learned his English from the student who had stayed with the family for the year and they were discussing her possible return upon completing her schooling in Australia.  I thought it very funny that this young Japanese man, having learned his English from the Aussie had, as his accent, a very heavy Aussie clip to his language.  One would never have known him NOT to be from Australia. I mused that had he been taught English by a New Zealander or a Cockney or Liverpoolian, American or Canadian teacher he would have been mistaken for any one of them. It just seemed so incongruous.   April 9 - Sunday Flight home for me was actually at 2:30pm but I figured that by the time I got to the airport, should I remain behind after Alicia and James left would not give me enough time to DO anything so we all decided to depart at the same time.  I like airports and the Narita looked like an interesting spot to hang for a while - dine and shop duty free etc. so we all headed out for the last time on our oh so familiar route - Chidori chi to Kamata to Tokyo Station to super bullet train directly to Narita. All was smooth and we were just in time for each connection without any wait. Japan Air was in the first terminal; Korean Air in the second so we parted way and wished each other a safe journey home.     Narita was easy - got luggage dropped quickly and then headed up to the 'duty free' area long before entering to the gate as once passed there is no return and nothing much other than seating - no foods etc. I wandered past store after store taking a look here and there.    A music shop caught my eye and as I do not know the sounds of current Japanese pop music I began to rummage through the selection basing my choice on label cover.  I approached the sales girl who nodded and smiled openly.  I tried to convey my question as to what would the music sound like.  She stared blankly back and indicated that she spoke no English. So I paused then pointed to the CD and then to my ear and then to the ceiling as music was already playing. I did the same several times - Flash - she got it. No she said that these cd's could not be played. Nothing had been lost on me -  I nodded in Japanese.   Then I ventured once again as to ask what kind of music would these 3 cd's  sound like - again she starred blankly.  I looked at her and then let out a very loud noise which startled her and everyone in the store. Then I tried another sound less loud, more ballad like and pointed to the ceiling and then tried a third with the word DANCE as I gyrated around. An odd form of charades was being played out by one party alone me while the other tried to understand that maybe this oddly behaving woman - her mother's age - was actually trying to communicate and had not simply 'gone off the bend' - we were Lost in Translation but I was damned if we were going to be drowned by it.  She was utterly taken aback but as I continued to stand and simply smile and clearly the loud sound was not to be uttered again she said Ballad and pointed to ceiling.  Hmmmm. I put back the cd and went for the next - I pointed to the ceiling, and then danced around then - she caught on quickly. NO her head said. Dance. Ahhhh. I said. Again my Japanese was flawless.  We both laughed. We did this 'dance' a few times more then I pulled three cds and held them out to her and pointing to her and then to the music. She looked at them for a moment, and then pointed.  I said DANCE and she then repointed and smiled.  I handed it to her and we had a sale!   I moved onward to the food courts - everything ranging from formal dining to quick beer snacks to American sport foods, Crepes wrapped in paper to something that clearly caught my eye.  A lunch for 1,000Y - soup, muffin and tea, rowe pasta with Parmesan cheese.  The soup came first - a light seaweed soup followed by a cup of tea and muffin with jelly.  The entrée of rowe pasta arrived - a large plate of light yellow coloured fettuccini pasta with a wonderful buttered cheese sprinkle.  As I had never had a meal served in quite that odd an order I was not sure I had made myself clear but apparently I had.  It was delightful to just sit and enjoy. After relaxing I headed out to browse more of the shops when I came across a handcrafted clothing boutique stand.  I pulled a hand painted silk tie intending it for Bill's 25th - splurge - what the heah - but was torn between two looks so the first male walking towards me with a suit on was cornered as I thrust the intended purchase to his neck - he stopped and 'modeled' and then asked ' young or old' - young I replied and he pointed to the one I had thought the best as well. We both bowed deeply and smiled at one another. Another purchase. And soon it was time to head on down to customs and to the long walk to the assigned Gate.   Departure should have been within the hour but it lapsed into a 4hour wait.  I was very glad I had stopped off to dine and now with another long wait ahead I pulled out the sandwiches Alicia and I had purchased, just in anticipation of such a thing occurring. So while I listened to tour groups returning from China discuss their trip and and and I munched and took in the wait with patience, knowing that Alyson would be clever enough to have checked the in coming flight schedule.   What is interesting is that as Einstein said if you stand still in one spot long enough time will MEET you and considering that the departure time on the 9th would be later then my arrival time on the 9th, Time had met me, and some.   I chatted with a chap from South Africa now based in San Diego who manufactured and distributed bowls and stuffs made out of a resin ceramic like material he processed in Mexico.  The product was sold to cruises, large hotels and the like.  He was an aggressive fireplug who liked to sell and talk so we talked about his business, politics and the economy, who travelled with everything that was needed 'in hand'.  Then he headed for the first class section and I for the masses. Cards were exchanged and well wishes of course handed out.    My seat partner was Soon Jung, a student from University of Seoul, Korea who was visiting her boy friend who lives at Santa Monica beach.  Needless to say, we had plenty to chat about; a nice young gal filled with anticipation and options. We stayed together through the customs and baggage claim and then walked out through the waiting crowds that had gathered in anxiety waiting for our very much-delayed plane. Soon Jung's friend was waiting. I saw Alyson right off with a large beautiful bouquet of fresh cut flowers - such a treat. We had arrived some 5 hours later, what with customs etc.

Erika Wain

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